Camels and horses and ruins and stuff, cont'd again

There are two things that Qataris are passionate about besides their camels. (Well, three things I guess if you count their Toyota Land Cruisers. But that is another story.) One of those things is their horses. The Emir owns Arabians, beautiful little delicate aristocratic Arabian horses. While Sheila and I were at work one day, Dave and Errol went to a horse show at the Equestrian Center. They brought back lots of stories of the beauties and whetted our curiosity about what was behind the large ornate gates that we pass each day on the way to school.

Last Thursday night we went to investigate, thinking that we were going to take in a couple of races. As luck would have it, we stumbled onto an international show jumping competition and slid into the stadium to watch a couple of rounds. Riders and horses from around the Gulf States strutted their stuff for the judges, circling the course with great speed and agility. I sat entranced by their strength and skill.

Later we walked to the race track and took in two races from a stadium packed with people. The race track is far too huge to be able to see the horses as they race the far side of the track, but a jumbo tron brings the action right to the stadium. The horses were spirited and sleek, and the races were exciting.

The real star of the evening, though, was the Equestrian Center itself. The place covers at least 20 or 25 acres and includes show rings, stadiums, race tracks (both sand and sod), stable space for at least 700 horses, parking and park areas. And they are still building. Qataris do everything on a grand scale.

The second passion of Qataris is their falcons. Falconry is a traditional sport in the Arab world, and much money, time and effort is put into training and working the gorgeous birds. Just this week, in conjunction with the National Day celebration, a display of traditional arts, crafts and sports has been staged. Though it focused on camel dressage and was called "The Way of the Messenger", one of the tents included a falconer and several of the fierce birds.

I am coming to understand more and more the way of the desert--the appreciation of camels and horses and birds, the deep connection of Bedouin people to the land.

Camels and horses and ruins and stuff, cont'd

Another day we headed north to the beautiful fishing village of Al Khor. The harbour there was a hive of activity, men mending nets, repairing boats,and generally preparing for fishing. The fish market offers every color, size and type of fish from crab and rock lobster to the lovely spotted harmour, and the silvery pink sheri. There is a general feeling of cheerfulness and industy about the place, a bit laid back, in tune with the rhythm of the tides.

With the flares of Ras Laffan to our right, we drove further northwest to Al Ruwais and Madinat al Shamal. We stopped for lunch at a village restaurant where we were served chicken curry and rice. Indian workers came and went as we ate, while Arabs stopped outside in their four wheel droves and honked the horn for curb side service. We have seen that a lot this week. The smaller take out--eat in restaurants seem to be happy to take orders from vehicle doors and deliver as well. Customers need not get out of their cars.

The northwest coast of the country is rife with ruins, most of which are not protected or even archeologically excavated. On our way to Al Zubara we stopped at the site of an ancient village close to the sea. Far from being deserted, the site was occupied by a group of young men having a barbecue and enjoying the winter weather with a pick up game of cricket. Graffiti marred a few of the still standing walls of the ruins. There is nothing to inform the curious about the ruins. Even the fort at Al Zubara is bereft of any innterpretive information.

This is such a country of contrasts. The abundance of the ocean, its beauty, movement and vitality enclose the barren desert. Bright blue waves gently crest on sandy shores but the land itself is dry and rocky, treacherous even, hardly fit for the wild camels that we spotted a few yards from the road way. Yet it is the land that is providing the wealth of the country. Pipelines line the desert like long strings of spaghetti. The days of prosperity from the ocean are long past.

Camels and horses and ruins and stuff

I have to say that I am gaining more respect and perspective on this country the longer I am here. It is just a little dry rocky piece of desert but the diversity of wildlife and plants, of cultures and languages is remarkable, and the depth of the resources both natural and human is noteworthy. We had the opportunity this week to explore some of these aspects of life in Qatar. This was the week of Eid al Adha, the celebration of the feast of the sacrifice. Islam commemorates the obedience of Abraham (Ibrahim) in offering the sacrifice of his son Ishmael. Isn't it interesting how historical conceptions differ? Besides the religious significance of the holiday, it is a time of family celebration much like Christmas. The city has been busy with special family events all week. Dave and I, along with our friends Sheila and Errol, took excursions outside of the city and avoided the crowds.

For us, Eid began with a Christmas brunch with our neighbours on the street, about the only ones who had not yet departed for Christmas holidays. It was fun to celebrate Christmas in this sunny, hot land with people from all over snowy Canada. Before the day was through we were treated to a thunderstorm complete with down pour of rain and hail (the closest thing to snow that we are likely to see). This was the first real rain that I have seen in four months.

Early Sunday morning we headed west across the country to Dukane, Qatar Petroleum country. the first stop on the way was the camel racing track just outside of Doha in Al Rayyan. Camels are close to being the sacred animal in this country and it is easy to understand why. In this barren land they have provided meat and transportation, as well as protection and companionship. In early morning before the heat of the day, the camels stretch their ungainly legs around the sandy track, their long elegant necks stretched out before them. Their feet are huge and nearly circular, as we could see from the deep indents left in the sand. Hundreds of animals are housed in the race track area, tended by young men of many nationalities. Camel trainers seem to be gregarious by nature, as they waved and called out to us from the backs of their charges, trying out their limited English. "How are you?" they called with big smiles on their faces as they passed us on the track.

The racing camels are not ridden by humans. I have heard stories of camel races in Saudi Arabia where the jockeys are young children. This is not the case in Qatar. Here the camels are ridden by robots with little whips that are controlled from vehicles cruising alongside the track.















From the camel track we headed west across the desert to Dukane, a secured town site for the employees of Qatar Petroleum, admittance allowed only to residents and guests. We were permitted to drive to the beach area and spent a lovely hour walking on the sand and shell beach and enjoying the deep aqua color of the Gulf water. The water has cooled considerably this time of year, but it is still unimaginably warmer than the Bay of Fundy in the middle of summer.

Our treck then turned south towards Umm Baab and Al Salwa on the Qatar-Saudi border before turning northeast again on Salwa Road and back to Doha.

One of the things I miss most about home is singing with the Palmer Family Band. Making music is a great experience in itself. Making music with your family takes the fun to the next level. I hear that the Band is performing this weekend. I hope I will be missed.

In Doha, the music scene is quite active, though it isn't always easy to find out what is happening. In real Doha style, things are usually not advertised very well. Most often you read in the Gulf Times about something taking place on the day of reading. Occasionally you may find yourself by accident in the right place at the right time to take in a concert, like the night that we heard the Arabic band at the Old Souk.

We've been fortunate in the number of musical events that we've been able to take in. The most exciting event was the inaugural concert of the Doha Philharmonic Orchestra which took place in the beautiful national theater. Qatar has managed to bring musicians from all over the world to form its first national orchestra. One of the "house boys" here in the compound kept his ear to the ground and was able to acquire tickets for about 12 of his compatriots. Beethoven's Fifth was followed by Ravel's Bolero. The highlight of the concert, however, was the Arabian Concerto composed by Marcel Kalife and commissioned for the event. It was an intriguing mixture of western and Arabic instruments and sounds. It all made for a very satisfying evening.

Jazz is big here as well. One of the large hotels holds regular jazz nights. We were fortunate to be able to share in a concert by a jazz quintet from Virginia Commonwealth University in concert with the jazz band from the American School of Doha. This year is the 10th anniversary of VCU-Qatar, and part of their celebration was to bring this group of talented musicians from Richmond, Virginia. The quintet workshopped with the American school band and the concert was the result of that work. The professionals were amazing, but I was especially pleased to hear the young musicians and to see the smiles of accomplishment on their faces. Memories of my own kids experience with jazz bands in high school came back to me.

We have tickets for another musical event at the American School when they will stage their production of West Side Story. I have become familiar with some of the students at the school and I'm looking forward to seeing them perform.

I've been able to participate in some music as well. On Nov. 18, the Doha Singers performed for an audience of 600 at the American School. The program included classical religious works, a British folk song, a spiritual, a stage musical number, and concluded with an interesting arrangement of We Wish You a Merry Christmas. You can see me in the back row on the left, one of only 8 sopranos in a choir of about 60. I've never been in a choir with so few sopranos. Fortunately, each one but myself was trained, professional, or a music teacher. I just had to listen hard, and I was able to stay on pitch.

Also performing in the same concert was the Doha Orchestra. They presented a variety of music as well and we were all amazed by the skill of the youngest players. I think that I will take part in the orchestra after Christmas. It will be a good opportunity to improve my trumpet skills.

One of my favorite musical experiences since I've been here is the music of the Tamil worshippers. Their sound was clear and pure and joyful, accompanied by a variety of percussion instruments and keyboard. The music only enhanced the atmosphere of love and worship that permeated the room. And of course, the Arabic concert at the Old Souk was an experience that I will remember. I need to learn more about Arabic instruments and music. It is very rhythmic, and uses various types of strings from violins to guitars to sitars, as well as different types of drums.

So music has been a big part of my Doha experience so far. I'm sorry that I have not been able to experience more of the authentic music of the region. It surprises me that there is not more support for and promotion of Arabic music. In this political climate where it is vital that we come to understand other cultures, music is a universal language and an avenue for mutual appreciation and acceptance.

So, this weekend there will be a vacant spot and an unused mic in the Palmer Family Band. I hope they all think of me once in a while. I will miss Christmas carols this year as well. But I will be singing them in my heart, and I will be thinking of you all on Sunday.

Oh yes, one more thing. I'm always teasing my sister Valerie about the music at the Anglican Church. Well, I think I will have to learn to love it, as I think that is where we will settle our attendance on Friday mornings. The irony of it all.

The Doha Fellowship and Other Acts of Worship

Dorai and Nithila drive up to my villa in their Honda 4x4 just before 10 o'clock on Friday mornings. They come to pick me up for church. I have made their acquaintance through a friend in Canada, a connection that has proved to be so beneficial to me. Dorai and Nithila are from Tamila in India. They came to Qatar from New York City 4 years ago when Nithila was offered a position on the faculty of Weil Cornell Medical School. They are much closer to their homeland here, and Dorai visits India about every 2 months. Nithila amazes me with her ability to navigate the city. She effortlessly turns here and there, making u-turns at busy intersections with no visible trepidation whatsoever.

Most Fridays we attend the Doha Fellowship, a multi-cultural congregation of about 250 which meets in a villa turned meeting-place that has been provided by a wealthy sheik. Indian and African women in colorful national dress brighten up the drab interior of the villa. A variety of accents can be heard--South African, Australian, Indian, British. One woman said to me that it is just like heaven. She may be right. The music is loud and contemporary and is enjoyed with much bouncing and hand waving. Throughout the service various individuals in the congregation take the microphone to speak. I have yet to determine whether this participation is planned or spontaneous.

We have also attended the Anglican church, of the Diocese of Cypress and the Gulf, which meets in the gymnasium of the Doha English School. This is also the meeting place of the Qatar Natural History Group, I found out later. But that is a story for another time.The Bishop attended that morning to officiate at a confirmation ceremony. About half a dozen young people, all Indian I believe, and all dressed in brilliant white were to be dedicated to the Christian life. The Bishop was also in the city to conduct negotiations concerning the construction of a new church building on land donated by the state. His picture appeared in the Gulf Times that very morning. I find it surprising that the government of this Muslem country is so supportive of Christian congregations. I wonder if it is a subtle kind of control, this designation of specific spaces for Christian worship. It came as another surprise that there are several thousand practicing Christians in the country. It stands to reason considering that only about a quarter of the population of the country is actually Qatari.

Last Friday I had the privilege of joining in worship with a group of Tamil Christians. The only word that I understood was hallelujah, but the language of worship is essentially universal, and I was made to feel very much at home. I must have appeared very drab in my western style clothes and with my light hair and blue eyes as I sat on the floor surrounded by beautiful dark skinned women with shining black eyes dressed in brightly colored saris or shalwar kameeze. I had been seated for only a few moments before a woman behind me leaned forward to offer me an English Bible and a whispered interpretation of the scripture being read. Each time the minister announced another scripture, the woman would whisper to me in English where to find the passage. Before long the women all around me were joining in with whispered instructions. There were no language barriers for me that morning. And likewise no cultural barriers as I worshiped with my Tamil sisters. Following the service lunch was served, hot spicey Indian food followed by a sweet rice pudding. I will return to that congregation. These are people that I want to know better.
Thanks to everyone who have made comments on this blog. It's nice to know that you are out there and following the story. Yes, I do have 3 children--two by birth, and one by marriage. Take care and keep your stick on the ice.

Friday Night at Souk Waqif

The shopping malls are like nothing I have ever seen before for opulence and elegance. They are truly a reflection of the wealth of this country. Villagio Mall has a Venice theme complete with canal and gondola rides. The high domed ceiling is painted a sky blue overlaid with wispy white clouds. The entrance to City Centre Mall is complete with sweeping marble staircase, gold decorated pillars, majestic palm trees and fountain. Both malls contain a skating rink and amusement park,and retail stores from around the world.

The souks,as well, boast merchandise from around the world and throw in a taste of local culture (and color) to boot. Souk is the Arabic word for market, the olden day Bazaar used by the Bedouins to buy and sell goods. The Old Souq, or Souq Waqif, maintains the bustling atmosphere of the traditional market place.

Our first trip to the Old Souk was on a Saturday morning, in the heat of the day.The souks close at noon and open again after 4 pm when the sun's rays are lower, and the heat less intense. Poking around in narrow alley ways crowded with people we inspected shops full of cooking ware, spices, candies, perfumes, abayas elaborately decorated with sequins of gold and silver or colorful embroidery. We passed tailor shops and paused to watch the clothing being constructed. Several shops offered beautiful rugs of all shapes and sizes.

The souks, like much of public life in Arabic culture, are very much a men's area. Men run most of the shops,serve the customers, and haggle on prices. Women shoppers, if not in traditional Arab dress, are advised to wear covering of legs, arms and decolletage, or subject themselves to the outright stares of men. Having said that, I watched a diminutive Arab woman in black covering from head to toe, barter and haggle the best price with a shop keeper, then assertively direct a wheel barrow driver as he transported her purchases. Women know how function in a man's world.

The shop keepers expect that customers will bargain for lower prices. In fact, they admire a shopper who can wheel and deal. Almost as popular as "football" (soccer), haggling is a sport in itself. But there are deals to be had for those strong enough to stay the course. I am much too mild mannered, a typically nice Canadian, and pretty much fail in the bargaining department.

The Old Souq is transformed when the sun goes down. In the soft,mellow light of early evening in takes on an exotic air, an atmosphere of old Araby. The market becomes the meeting place. Arabs languish in outdoor cafes, smoking shisha,and drinking coffee. Groups of young men in thobes, and young women in abayas walk the avenues. Never the twain shall meet in theory. Young parents push strollers or take small children by the hand. Some buying and selling takes place I'm sure, but the evening is for food and socializing. If you are very lucky, you may even happen on a concert of Arabic music--violins, guitars, drums, clapping, vocalizing.

The malls and the souks--representative of the tug of war within this country. The push to modernize, to build, to bring in the best that the West has to offer struggles with the values of a bedouin culture stuck securely in the past. Desert people understand first hand the strength of nature, and the control it has on their destiny. Oil wealth is a very new phenomenon in this little arid strip of land. The changes that it is bringing have no grounding in the past and,like the foolish man who built his house upon the sand, could bring the house a tumbling down.

Getting lost and finding your way

Throughout our first weeks here, the university had provided new faculty and staff with drivers who faithfully and with good humor transported us around the confusing network of streets, highways and roundabouts which make up the road system of the city. On the Thurs before the Eid holiday week, this service was terminated, leaving many of us with the prospect of spending a week of isolation in the compound. This resulted in a flurry of activity as people rented cars and made arrangements with "fixers" to help them obtain Qatari drivers licenses. I am in no hurry to hurl myself into the speeding maze of Doha traffic, and opted to enjoy my villa for a week or accept invitations from my neighours to investigate the city and the country with them. What with Canadians being the kind and hospitable people that we are, I did not lack for invitations. My role became navigator from the back seat on many of these excursions as I perused the Doha city map and gave directions of "straight through at the next round about, or right at the lights.

It has amazed most of us that we have become so directionally disorientated in this city. That has much to do, I think, with the multitude of roundabouts which circulate traffic through intersections. Making a left turn requires that you initially go right. Being rather directionally challenged to begin with, I end up becoming completely misaligned and from there on directions all become counter-intuitive.

Another source of confusion is the near total lack of street signs, and absence of addresses. I have yet to discover how mail delivery occurs, or even if it does, or any kind of delivery for that matter. The Kentuck Fried delivery men defy the odds, however. I see them circling the compound on a regular basis, as well as the Pizza delivery and the bottled water delivery. I'm beginning to wonder if it is all a conspiracy to keep westerners confused. The trick, I'm told, is to become familiar with land marks--the Burger King roundabout, the Sports roundabout, Villagio mall, Landmark mall--then to count roundabouts and street lights, making the appropriate turns as required. I've begun to make some progress in that regard. This week I put away my map and carefully watched my surroundings as the traffic whizzed by on both sides. "Oh yes, I recognize that building, and this area is familiar to me. Yes, I know where we are now. This is the right direction." I could hear myself thinking. I am making progress.

The difficulty in designating landmarks is the virtual sameness of every area of the city. What you see on every side, whatever sector you are in, is construction. If there are any well-established residential areas in the city, I have yet to find them. Every neighbourhood is newly constructed, or in the process of construction, or a combination of the two. Compounds of varying degrees of completion are the norm, some of the villas lived in, some yet vacant. Elegant walled villas recently occupied are surrounded by more large villas partially constructed, the grey cement walls still dark and damp against the hot Qatari sun. As well, there is little variation in color here. The colors of the dessert are replicated in the architecture. Villas run the gamut of beige, cream, tan, with touches of terra cotta and yellow trim. The dust of the desert coats everything in any case, rendering all shades less than vibrant. On discovering an unusual green house near to our compound, we have named our own landmark on Al Shamal Road--the green house turnoff.

And so the brave souls among us have ventured into the intimidating traffic and have found that the driving is not so bad. In fact, I've been told that it is fun! It is like a real life board game where all the players are anticipating the moves of the others, and thinking in advance of where they must move on the board in order to avoid mishap or penalty. It has been encouraging to me to watch other middle aged female drivers get their driving bearings without too much difficulty. Even though from the back seat it feels like a combination of bumper cars and the tilt-a-wheel, I will eventually make the move to the driver's seat.

Our colleagues who have been here longer tell us not to worry about getting lost. "It is in getting lost that you are able to find your way", they say. That is a fitting metaphor for life in Doha, indeed for life in general.

Until next time...

I have been in Qatar for six weeks now and have finally figured out how to start this blog. Many Boomers, I realize, are more than happy to frig with gadgets and gizmos until they have it right. This Boomer has little patience with technotoys so if it takes more than one try to get it right, it gets put by the wayside. Like cell phones, for instance. I have not discovered how to store numbers in my mobile ( the life line of any expat worth her salt!) and have been unable this morning to contact a friend visiting from Dubai. If I learn anything from these few years in the Middle East, it will be to appreciate the wonders of communication technology.

If anything will motivate me to learn, it will be the need to be in touch with my kids. I have mastered Skype. If you haven't tried it you really should. It can put you right in the living rooms of those you love. All three children have had a personal tour of the villa, have observed their mother scratch and stretch and yawn through a conversation. The only deterrent to Skype is seeing yourself broadcast on that little screen to the bottom left--what a mess my hair is, and I'm looking so old! If you are particularly good looking, Skype should be a ball!

I have a few reasons for wanting to write this blog, not the least of which is to share some of my experiences with friends and colleagues in Canada. It will also offer me a chance to record my reflections, and determine what I really think about this Middle East experience. From what I have experienced so far, I realize that there is so much to learn, so many insights to gain. Finally, it will be practice writing, and much of it won't be that great. So be forewarned if you decide to follow this story to any degree. I'll be as forth right as I can--the writing will not be literary.

So let's begin.

We arrived in the oppressive heat of summer and were very quickly engaged in outfitting our villa. With the help of our wonderful driver, we spent two days scanning the malls for everything from groceries and sundries to towels , scrub pail and mop, dishes,pots and pans,super king size sheets, everything needed for housekeeping. Within the first week we were feeling pretty settled, having filled the cupboard and fridge with food, rearranged the furniture to suit us, and connected to internet and TV satelite and cable. Our compound is complete with fitness room and pool, and we were not long establishing a schedule of workouts and swims, mostly in the evening when the temperatures dropped to the low 40's.

Orientation for work started within a week of arriving. I've got to give the University of Calgary a lot of credit for the manner in which they receive new staff. Orientation was thourough and fun, and included the entire faculty who have only been here for a year after all, and who pioneered the project in Qatar, stumbling along by trial and error. It made us all feel welcome, and a part of a growing team.

Classes have been on now for 4 weeks. Working together and with help from the faculty in Calgary, course syllabi were constructed, lectures and activities prepared, and teaching begun. It has been a camel ride in many ways, but so is life in Doha. More about that in another entry.

This week is the holiday Eid Fitr, to mark the end of the holy month of Ramadan. Many expats use the opportunity to travel out of country and our compound is somewhat deserted. Several of us opted to "discover Doha" this week, and we have been having a good time at that. One thing that Doha has in spades is delicious, well priced international food. The Garden restaurant has wonderful authentic Indian food and great service in plain surroundings and at a remarkably low price. Most every type of food is represented here, and it is my goal to try them all.

More about life in Doha to come, but for now I will post some pictures--if I can figure out how.