All About Islam

Eid al Adha is just about over. It has been quite a week of celebration. After the sacrifice and the feast on Friday last, the festivities began and have been going all week. There was special entertainment at the City Centre Mall, on the Cornish and at Souk Waquif. Dave and I went to the Souk early on Monday so that we could take in some of the sights and have a bite to eat before the crowds descended. We ordered a sandwich and sat at an outside table for some serious people watching. The place was full of families with young children and the entertainment was geared for kids. Twenty foot high giraffes roamed through the crowd; jugglers threw balls high in the air; magicians did their tricks; and dancers encased in transparent balls rolled through the streets. It was great fun to watch the reactions of the children and the parents as a giraffe lowered its pointed head to the face of a youngster or a shiney robot stopped to pose for a picture.
Last weekend, just prior to Eid, there was an exhibit at the Doha Exhibition Center organized by the Islamic Cultural Center. It was to inform the public, non-Islamic and Islamic alike, about the history, beliefs, cultural and scientific contributions of Islam, as well as its place alongside the other monotheistic religions. I was most interested in seeing the replica of the Kaaba and learning more about the Haaj. I also had a very interesting conversation with an Islamic scholar and a covered and veiled Islamic woman about the merits of polygamy. The scholar quoted Billy Graham as saying that in Islam they have more than one legitimate wife, but in the western world (I hesitate to say Christian) they have one legitimate wife and many illegitimate relationships. Which is the worse? Everyone has their point of view.
A few days ago I had an awakening that made me realize that I am in a very different culture. I was out of bread and decided to walk to Beteel Bakery-- get in my daily exercise and do my shopping at the same time. Walking through the neighbourhood, I became aware that outside of a villa across the street the wall and the pavement were smeared with blood. Then I noticed a large dumpster that was filled to overflow with sheep skin, intestines and various other organs. There wasn't any smell and the flies hadn't gathered so I must have missed the action by just minutes. Eid al Adha--the Feast of the Sacrifice!

Everybody's Got to Eat!

I have always enjoyed shopping for groceries. Many of my friends think that is completely insane. But for me the feeling of putting aside provisions, having a well stocked pantry, is very satisfying. I remember taking Paul and Cait with me when they were very little kids, and chatting with them as we walked up and down the grocery aisles looking for what was on our list. My habit at home was to shop only one day a week. If I ran out of something in between, or if I forgot something, then I made myself wait until the next week. Our little "Save Easy" store in Perth-Andover doesn't have the widest selection of goods, but it was always good enough for me. Besides the owners, Bev and Paul, are just about the nicest people that the Good Lord ever created and I looked forward to visiting with them every week.
I still enjoy buying food, but my habits here in Doha are a bit different. There are lots of big beautiful supermarkets here with a great variety of goods, produce from all around the world, and ethnic foods to suit a multicultural society. Carrefour is a company from France that is frequented by many western expats. There is a new LuLu Hypermarked just around the corner from Al Zahour. We watched it being built most of last winter, and it finally opened sometime in the summer. LuLu is a fun place to shop, great bread, fresh fish, and lots of lovely fresh fruits and vegetables. It is also the newest landmark for expats who are still finding their way around the city. It is lit at night with a million lights flashing and swirling and twinkling over the massive walls. Talk about your carbon footprint! I'm sure that the scientists in the space station use LuLu to orient themselves in orbit.
But I am drawn to Al Meera, the little neighbourhood store frequented by locals. Though I haven't become acquainted with the owners, I am becoming familiar with the regular staff. Not everything is available there, so a trip to LuLu may still be in order, but for the most part it meets my needs. It is only 5 minutes from home (I can even walk there if I like), and is an easy stop after work.
I'm finding that in Doha one stop once a week just doesn't work. First of all, you probably won't find everything you want at one store. For instance, LuLu has the best fresh fish, and bread. Al Meera has good produce at the lowest price. And since bread and bananas seem to reach their full potential, so to speak, so quickly, I find that I'm running into the store more than once a week to pick up bread, and my ubiquitous bananas.
And then I have to regularly visit my friends at the local fruit and vegetable stand. It is a pleasure to go there for the friendly smiles, and the beautiful colors of produce from around the world. The boys there can give you the natural history of every piece of fruit you pick up--bananas from the Phillipines, strawberries from Egypt, tomatoes from Syria. Where are the grapes from this week? And the pomegranates? They always seem to know, or at least they make up a good story.
My good friend Loralie, gone but not forgotten, introduced me to the Automatic Bakery in Gharrafa last winter. I've been there a couple of times this fall, but going there frequently can be hazardous to your health. There are practically miles of counters filled with all kinds of Arabic sweets-marmouls, baclava, sesame bisquits. I've become familiar with one of the workers there. When he found out that I am from Canada, he began to speak French to me. One of the best parts of grocery shopping in Doha is the friendly people that you meet. Surprisingly, they never forget who you are, and are glad to see you when you return.
So my shopping habits have changed some, but in many ways they are still the same. Grocery shopping is a bit of a social event in Doha just as it was for me in Perth-Andover. I enjoy seeing the same faces on a regular basis and feeling like part of a community. Just the same, I have to shop around, not for the best prices, but because I know that the only place that has ground chicken is Family Food at Al Rayyan. (They also have the best smoked turkey cold cuts.) And because the salmon is consistently the best at LuLu.

It's Good to be Back

I arrived back in Doha on the last day of August, smack dab in the middle of Ramadan, jet lagged and stuffed up with a cold, and exhausted from 24 hours of travel. Orientation was over by the time I got here and school was about to start. My first class was at 8 am the morning after I arrived. Feeling a little dehydrated, I filled my big water glass before heading to class and commenced to sip for the next 3 hours in front of a room of Muslim students. I must have really been out of it! Even after receiving an e-mail notice from the Dean warning faculty and staff to be careful of consuming anything in a public area, I didn't realize what I had done until later that afternoon. My students, like most people here, are gracious and my apologies during the next class were readily accepted.
Westerners cannot fully appreciate the significance of Ramadan. We stand outside the celebration of this season and assume that it has nothing to do with us. To Muslims, however, the Holy Month has great significance and I suspect that the presence of Westerners is more intrusive during that time. This year, thanks to daily articles in the Gulf Times, I came to a fuller appreciation of the season. It is intriguing how much Ramadan mirrors the season of Advent as a time of spiritual seeking and preparation. It is a time for families as each day the fast is broken with a special meal. The month is completed with the holiday Eid al Fitr, a time for celebration, feasting, gift giving and family visits. Does that sound like a Christian celebration familiar to you? Dave and I were delighted to find, on one of our walks around the neighbourhood during Eid, a villa decorated with "Christmas" lights in grand style.
Forty days after the end of Eid al Fitr, is the second Eid--Eid al Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice when sheep and goats are slaughtered to celebrate the faithfulness of Abraham as he was called by God to sacrifice his son Isaac. This is a more solemn feast and recalls the sacrifice of Christ, in the tradition close to my heart. I can't help but feel that we have more similarities than differences.
It was wonderful to be back in Doha--great to get off the plane and feel at home, so familiar, a thrill to get in the taxi and give the driver directions. "You get me to Landmark, and I'll direct you from there." I am a seasoned member of the faculty this year, giving support and advice to the new faculty--who would ever have believed it! Getting reacquainted with students, making acquaintance with new faculty and staff, putting together two new (for me) courses, and trying to have a bit of a life outside of school has made it a very busy fall.
I am a member of the Doha Singers again this year, joined by two of my neighbours in the compound.We are preparing for a Christmas concert and the music is so much fun and so nostalgic that I think we all leave rehersals feeling home sick. As well, after having a successful audition, I am 3rd trumpet in the Doha Windband. Now I have a reason to practice my trumpet and I am enjoying it immensely.It's is not as professional a group as The River Valley Show Band, of course, but I guess it will have to do!
As if that wasn't enough,I have volunteered to teach "Friday School" at the Church of the Epiphany once a month, and I plan to regularly visit the Qatari Foundation for Elderly People Care (I love that name!). I'm anxious to hear the stories of these old people, and learn from them about this country and culture.
Today I joined the Think Pink Walk organized by the Qatar Cancer Society. Our students were instrumental in building awareness of the event so it was a pleasure to support them in their efforts. Many of the faculty and staff from UC-Q took part. People from all over the world, dressed in pink, spent an hour walking the length of the corniche in support of breast cancer awareness.
It sounds like I'm becoming part of a community. I'm growing attached to this little city and the people of Qatar, to our students and the work that we are doing here. I've become familiar with the place and the people. It almost feels like home.

Like I've Never Even Been Away

I've been back in New Brunswick for a week now. It seems like I've never been away. I'm just sitting here looking out at all the green, and rain for the 7th day of the seven that I've been home. What a contrast this is from Qatar. So green, so moist, so quiet. I will enjoy my weeks here, but I also look forward to returning to the dusty dry world of Qatar,and the work that I have started there.
What a year it has been. The things I've learned, and seen and the people that I have met. So do you want to know --
What I have learned:

• a little bit or Arabic, Turkish and Singalese
• how to barter (well, a little anyway)
• that Arabian horses are judged on their heads, their body shape, their pedigree and how they move
• how tents and the desert are so important to Arab culture
• a little bit about Arab politics and how things work in this region. Still lots to learn. Arab politics are an enigma
• so much about inequities and tragedies in the world
• how to drive in Doha traffic
  
• how much I love Canada and home
• that I have so much more to learn about everything

What I have seen:

• 40 degree temperatures at midnight
• the desert, desert, desert
• sandstorms
• camels, wild and tame
• Arabian horses, races and dressage
• very unusual driving habits
• the Persian Gulf, the Aegean Sea, the Mediterranean, the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara, and the Indian Ocean
• the Blue Mosque, Chora Church, jTopkapi Palace, the Brand Bazaar
• the ancient ruins--so many ancient ruins--of Turkey
• the chaos of Sri Lankan traffic
• sea turtles, monkeys, elephants fruit bats, parrots
• work camps
• tents with fireplaces

And the people I have met:

• the fantastic staff and faculty of UC-Q from B. C., Montreal, Calgary, London, Sask., Ont., N. B., Nfld., India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka,
  
• My favoirte driver from Karila, Mr Aslam
• Sheik Ali Al Misnad
• Egyptian painter extrordinaire, Gemal
• many wonderful Sri Lankans
• many wonderful Turks
• Nithila and Dorai Issac.

The next weeks will be spent catching up with family, working in my garden, up-dating my health and dental work, and preparing for the new school year .

On the Roads of Doha

Since Dave returned to Canada on Apr. 2, I have been compelled to provide my own transportation. It would be stupid to have a nice Nissan X-trail sitting in my carport and refuse to drive it, wouldn't it? So all through the month of March, I practiced on the roundabouts with Dave in the passenger seat giving encouragement. Most often I went out on Friday mornings when the traffic is slow, building up to driving to school each morning, and growing my confidence each time behind the wheel. I'm feeling pretty good about it now, and I must say that it is great to have my own wheels. I don't have to rely on anyone to get my groceries, go to work (if my schedule happens to vary from Sheila's), get my hair cut, go to church, etc. I have a feeling that Dave is not so confident about my ability. He probably cringes when he thinks about me behind the wheel in Doha traffic, and he has good reason--my driving record hasn't been that great.

The biggest thing about driving in Doha is the roundabouts. A few intersections have traffic lights, but mostly the traffic flows counterclockwise through these circles, exiting at the appropriate street--right, straight ahead, all the way around to the left, or even complete u-turn back the way you came. For the most part, they are an efficient way to move traffic.The difficulty occurs when cars are in the wrong lane for where they want to exit. Moving across from the middle lane to a right exit is bound to get you in trouble, unless you move very fast. Which brings me to the other danger in roundabouts--very fast moving vehicles. Patience is not a virtue in this country, and drivers do not want to wait for anyone to get out of their way--especially not a middle-aged white woman who doesn't seem to know what she's doing. So they tend to whip past me like nobody's business.

To complicate matters, some of the roundabouts have lights, and you could be stopped at every exit all the way around. You really have to keep your eyes open, not only to see all the lights but also to decide what they mean. At some intersections a flashing yellow means that you can go, the light will soon turn green. At others a flashing yellow means you should stop because the light will soon turn red. Sometimes a flashing green means you can go, sometimes it means slow down because it soon will turn yellow. Go figure! Driving in Doha is never boring.

One thing that I can say about my driving is that I know my limitations. Driving at night is one of them. I haven't worked up enough courage to do that--and maybe never will, for a few reasons. First of all, this is not a pedestrian-friendly city. No sidewalks, no crosswalks, no crossing lights. But there are plenty of pedestrians--walkers (including women in black abayas), bicyclers, often with a passenger on cross-bar and none with helmets, children. I'm terrified that I will not see someone trying to cross a busy street before it is too late. Second, the Arabs come out at night. And no, that is not a racist comment. It's true, and considering that temperatures get up to 40 plus in the daytime, it's pretty reasonable. Traffic picks up considerably after dark. The streets are congested, roundabouts are backed up, and in general it is not a pretty sight. Besides that, Arabs also like to drive fast. You can look in your rear-view mirror and see a monster SUV bearing down on you with his headlights bright and flashing. "Get out of the way! I'm coming through!" At least they give you fair warning.

Last night I wanted to get to choir practice. Sheila, my usual partner in crime and loyal night transport, is away this week on a much deserved vacation. So I called Johnson. Mr. Johnson is a private taxi service who has a wonderful reputation with Canadian ex-pats, both in this compound and AJL. True to his reputation he arrived at my door just a little early and delivered me to the American School of Doha in less than 15 minutes. (He drives a little faster than I do.) He knew all the short cuts and back alleys and how to avoid the congested areas. Then he collected me at 8:30 and delivered me home again by 8:45.

I've got to say it's great to be able to drive. It's also great to be able to hire a driver. I'm independent either way.

Wide, Wide World

Being in the Middle East puts us North Americans in closer proximity to travel destinations that we would not even consider otherwise. We've been fortunate to be able to get to two exotic locations, two places that I never thought that I would visit. Over our Christmas break, Dave and I traveled to Turkey ( I know! I know! Turkey for Christmas), flying to Istanbul then getting a bus to Izmir and renting a car to drive to Kusadazi and vicinity. Then in February, we took advantage of reading week to take Caitlin on a beach holiday in Sri Lanka. I won't bore you with the details but I'd like to share some pictures from each trip.

Turkey, Christmas, 2008

Chora Church

Sri Lanka, Feb, 2009

So, what are we doing tonight

To those restless souls who say that there is nothing to do in Doha, you must not get out of your compound much. Granted, Doha is not exactly sophisticated or cosmopolitan. Practically every day you can see some kind of livestock being transported through the city on the back of a quarter-ton, and roosters`crowing is a familiar sound. There isn`t much for green space, and side-walks are practically non-existent. But to say that there is nothing to do is completely wrong!

Let me tell you just some of the events that took place in Doha this past week. Last week-end there was a huge wedding and fashion show at the Exhibition Center, and an international diving competition (FINA)was going on at the Aspire Center. Canada was represented at the diving competition by two young women from Montreal who managed to win a silver medal in the synchronized 10 meter event. That was quite a thrill for all of the Canadian ex-pats who were there waving maple leafs in support of their team. Kudos have to go to the Chinese team, though, who took all of the gold medals. It was exhilarating to watch them as they tumbled and turned, cutting the water so sharply on entry that there was hardly a splash.

Then on Tuesday there was an Arabian horse show at the Equestrian Center. Along with the beauty of the horses and the skill of the trainers and handlers, we were also treated to aspects of Qatari culture--home cooked food, weaving, henna, handcrafts, perfume and incense--set up in a tented and carpeted area. Outside were displays of other Qatari pastimes--vintage cars , speed boats and racing cars and motorcycles. The horse show was followed on Wednesday and Thursday by ``The 30th Race Meeting Festival with H. H. Emir Trophies and Sword Day``. Four races on Thursday evening had a total purse of $4 million American, and the Emir himself was on hand to award the trophies. To top off the evening, 2 Toyota Corolla`s were given away to two lucky audience members--actually two Sudanese fellows who happened to hold the winning numbers. What a night! I think at least half of the city was in attendance.

So that was just this week! Then there have been events like the Qatar Masters Golf Tournament, concerts by the Qatar Philharmonic, theatrical presentations by the Doha Players, the American School of Doha, and Qatar Academy ( they are staging Wicked next week), international tennis tournaments starring Venus and Serena, soccer championships featuring none other than David Beckham. Then there are all the multi-cultural festivals like Pakistani Day, Kerila Day (actually the Kerilan groups have festivals and shows with famous Indian actors and entertainers frequently throughout the year), and all the activities of groups like the Qatar Natural History group, the Quilters Guild, and others.

So don`t tell me that there is nothing to do in Doha! I`m winded just to think about it all. Oh, I see it`s time to go. We`re invited to our neighbour`s place for supper. Then tomorrow we will get up early and drive to Al Khor. We`ve been invited to a Sheik`s horse farm for a tour and lunch. Never a dull moment!

Gamel and the Mural

Dave and I have spent a lot of time walking around our neighbourhood. We head out of our compound, turn right by AJ1 and right again at the corner by the big yellow palace. Then we cross the road, being careful to watch for speeding Land Cruisers, and travel across the desert to one of any number of streets lined with walled villas and compounds. We are out to get some exercise of course, but we also love to have a peek at the villas through the open gates, and we always try to strike up a conversation with a local.

We have discovered some beautiful villas on our travels, some with imposing porticos, all with beautiful sculpted gates, and many with green stretches of grass, palm trees and flowers lining the walls. Inside the gates we catch glimpses of rose gardens and flower pots, even the occassional wide screen TV. As it so seldom rains in Doha, outdoor TV viewing is the in thing.

Tents are another common outdoor feature, especially through the winter months when the weather is a little cooler. We are told that the tents serve as boys' clubs for watching TV and playing video games. I guess the women and girls are expected to stay indoors.

We have not, as yet, made the acquaintance of many Arabs but we have talked to many gardeners, house maids, and drivers as they have gone about their work. Most all speak English to some degree, and are friendly and happy to have some conversation.

On one of our walks we came upon a compound under construction. Painted a light, bright green, it contrasted with the neutrals of desert sand and surrounding villas, and easily caught our eyes. The gate was open and I went closer to take a look inside. Several laborers were sitting in the shade having coffee break and smiled as they saw me peering through the gate.

"Would it be okay if we walked through the compound just to have a look?", I asked.

"Of course", was the reply, and we came into this bright beautiful green world.

The workers took us on a tour of the place, into a villa, around the recreation complex, and even into the mosque. Lovely primitive murals covered many of the public spaces, and powder blue skys dotted with fluffy white clouds covered many of the ceilings. We were privileged to have the artist as one of our tour guides. I think that he was anxious for us to hire him to decorate our compound as well. That would have been a great idea, except that we don't own our compound,and don't have a budget for murals.

Gamel, the artist, is from Egypt but has been living and working in Qatar for about 5 years. His handiwork also decorates the Villageo Mall. It was apparent that he was very proud of his work as he happily guided us from building to building. He had chosen most of the color schemes, appliances, flooring and wall tiles. An all round decorator, I guess. If he lived in the States he would have his own TV show.