On the Roads of Doha

Since Dave returned to Canada on Apr. 2, I have been compelled to provide my own transportation. It would be stupid to have a nice Nissan X-trail sitting in my carport and refuse to drive it, wouldn't it? So all through the month of March, I practiced on the roundabouts with Dave in the passenger seat giving encouragement. Most often I went out on Friday mornings when the traffic is slow, building up to driving to school each morning, and growing my confidence each time behind the wheel. I'm feeling pretty good about it now, and I must say that it is great to have my own wheels. I don't have to rely on anyone to get my groceries, go to work (if my schedule happens to vary from Sheila's), get my hair cut, go to church, etc. I have a feeling that Dave is not so confident about my ability. He probably cringes when he thinks about me behind the wheel in Doha traffic, and he has good reason--my driving record hasn't been that great.

The biggest thing about driving in Doha is the roundabouts. A few intersections have traffic lights, but mostly the traffic flows counterclockwise through these circles, exiting at the appropriate street--right, straight ahead, all the way around to the left, or even complete u-turn back the way you came. For the most part, they are an efficient way to move traffic.The difficulty occurs when cars are in the wrong lane for where they want to exit. Moving across from the middle lane to a right exit is bound to get you in trouble, unless you move very fast. Which brings me to the other danger in roundabouts--very fast moving vehicles. Patience is not a virtue in this country, and drivers do not want to wait for anyone to get out of their way--especially not a middle-aged white woman who doesn't seem to know what she's doing. So they tend to whip past me like nobody's business.

To complicate matters, some of the roundabouts have lights, and you could be stopped at every exit all the way around. You really have to keep your eyes open, not only to see all the lights but also to decide what they mean. At some intersections a flashing yellow means that you can go, the light will soon turn green. At others a flashing yellow means you should stop because the light will soon turn red. Sometimes a flashing green means you can go, sometimes it means slow down because it soon will turn yellow. Go figure! Driving in Doha is never boring.

One thing that I can say about my driving is that I know my limitations. Driving at night is one of them. I haven't worked up enough courage to do that--and maybe never will, for a few reasons. First of all, this is not a pedestrian-friendly city. No sidewalks, no crosswalks, no crossing lights. But there are plenty of pedestrians--walkers (including women in black abayas), bicyclers, often with a passenger on cross-bar and none with helmets, children. I'm terrified that I will not see someone trying to cross a busy street before it is too late. Second, the Arabs come out at night. And no, that is not a racist comment. It's true, and considering that temperatures get up to 40 plus in the daytime, it's pretty reasonable. Traffic picks up considerably after dark. The streets are congested, roundabouts are backed up, and in general it is not a pretty sight. Besides that, Arabs also like to drive fast. You can look in your rear-view mirror and see a monster SUV bearing down on you with his headlights bright and flashing. "Get out of the way! I'm coming through!" At least they give you fair warning.

Last night I wanted to get to choir practice. Sheila, my usual partner in crime and loyal night transport, is away this week on a much deserved vacation. So I called Johnson. Mr. Johnson is a private taxi service who has a wonderful reputation with Canadian ex-pats, both in this compound and AJL. True to his reputation he arrived at my door just a little early and delivered me to the American School of Doha in less than 15 minutes. (He drives a little faster than I do.) He knew all the short cuts and back alleys and how to avoid the congested areas. Then he collected me at 8:30 and delivered me home again by 8:45.

I've got to say it's great to be able to drive. It's also great to be able to hire a driver. I'm independent either way.

Wide, Wide World

Being in the Middle East puts us North Americans in closer proximity to travel destinations that we would not even consider otherwise. We've been fortunate to be able to get to two exotic locations, two places that I never thought that I would visit. Over our Christmas break, Dave and I traveled to Turkey ( I know! I know! Turkey for Christmas), flying to Istanbul then getting a bus to Izmir and renting a car to drive to Kusadazi and vicinity. Then in February, we took advantage of reading week to take Caitlin on a beach holiday in Sri Lanka. I won't bore you with the details but I'd like to share some pictures from each trip.

Turkey, Christmas, 2008

Chora Church

Sri Lanka, Feb, 2009

So, what are we doing tonight

To those restless souls who say that there is nothing to do in Doha, you must not get out of your compound much. Granted, Doha is not exactly sophisticated or cosmopolitan. Practically every day you can see some kind of livestock being transported through the city on the back of a quarter-ton, and roosters`crowing is a familiar sound. There isn`t much for green space, and side-walks are practically non-existent. But to say that there is nothing to do is completely wrong!

Let me tell you just some of the events that took place in Doha this past week. Last week-end there was a huge wedding and fashion show at the Exhibition Center, and an international diving competition (FINA)was going on at the Aspire Center. Canada was represented at the diving competition by two young women from Montreal who managed to win a silver medal in the synchronized 10 meter event. That was quite a thrill for all of the Canadian ex-pats who were there waving maple leafs in support of their team. Kudos have to go to the Chinese team, though, who took all of the gold medals. It was exhilarating to watch them as they tumbled and turned, cutting the water so sharply on entry that there was hardly a splash.

Then on Tuesday there was an Arabian horse show at the Equestrian Center. Along with the beauty of the horses and the skill of the trainers and handlers, we were also treated to aspects of Qatari culture--home cooked food, weaving, henna, handcrafts, perfume and incense--set up in a tented and carpeted area. Outside were displays of other Qatari pastimes--vintage cars , speed boats and racing cars and motorcycles. The horse show was followed on Wednesday and Thursday by ``The 30th Race Meeting Festival with H. H. Emir Trophies and Sword Day``. Four races on Thursday evening had a total purse of $4 million American, and the Emir himself was on hand to award the trophies. To top off the evening, 2 Toyota Corolla`s were given away to two lucky audience members--actually two Sudanese fellows who happened to hold the winning numbers. What a night! I think at least half of the city was in attendance.

So that was just this week! Then there have been events like the Qatar Masters Golf Tournament, concerts by the Qatar Philharmonic, theatrical presentations by the Doha Players, the American School of Doha, and Qatar Academy ( they are staging Wicked next week), international tennis tournaments starring Venus and Serena, soccer championships featuring none other than David Beckham. Then there are all the multi-cultural festivals like Pakistani Day, Kerila Day (actually the Kerilan groups have festivals and shows with famous Indian actors and entertainers frequently throughout the year), and all the activities of groups like the Qatar Natural History group, the Quilters Guild, and others.

So don`t tell me that there is nothing to do in Doha! I`m winded just to think about it all. Oh, I see it`s time to go. We`re invited to our neighbour`s place for supper. Then tomorrow we will get up early and drive to Al Khor. We`ve been invited to a Sheik`s horse farm for a tour and lunch. Never a dull moment!

Gamel and the Mural

Dave and I have spent a lot of time walking around our neighbourhood. We head out of our compound, turn right by AJ1 and right again at the corner by the big yellow palace. Then we cross the road, being careful to watch for speeding Land Cruisers, and travel across the desert to one of any number of streets lined with walled villas and compounds. We are out to get some exercise of course, but we also love to have a peek at the villas through the open gates, and we always try to strike up a conversation with a local.

We have discovered some beautiful villas on our travels, some with imposing porticos, all with beautiful sculpted gates, and many with green stretches of grass, palm trees and flowers lining the walls. Inside the gates we catch glimpses of rose gardens and flower pots, even the occassional wide screen TV. As it so seldom rains in Doha, outdoor TV viewing is the in thing.

Tents are another common outdoor feature, especially through the winter months when the weather is a little cooler. We are told that the tents serve as boys' clubs for watching TV and playing video games. I guess the women and girls are expected to stay indoors.

We have not, as yet, made the acquaintance of many Arabs but we have talked to many gardeners, house maids, and drivers as they have gone about their work. Most all speak English to some degree, and are friendly and happy to have some conversation.

On one of our walks we came upon a compound under construction. Painted a light, bright green, it contrasted with the neutrals of desert sand and surrounding villas, and easily caught our eyes. The gate was open and I went closer to take a look inside. Several laborers were sitting in the shade having coffee break and smiled as they saw me peering through the gate.

"Would it be okay if we walked through the compound just to have a look?", I asked.

"Of course", was the reply, and we came into this bright beautiful green world.

The workers took us on a tour of the place, into a villa, around the recreation complex, and even into the mosque. Lovely primitive murals covered many of the public spaces, and powder blue skys dotted with fluffy white clouds covered many of the ceilings. We were privileged to have the artist as one of our tour guides. I think that he was anxious for us to hire him to decorate our compound as well. That would have been a great idea, except that we don't own our compound,and don't have a budget for murals.

Gamel, the artist, is from Egypt but has been living and working in Qatar for about 5 years. His handiwork also decorates the Villageo Mall. It was apparent that he was very proud of his work as he happily guided us from building to building. He had chosen most of the color schemes, appliances, flooring and wall tiles. An all round decorator, I guess. If he lived in the States he would have his own TV show.

Camels and horses and ruins and stuff, cont'd again

There are two things that Qataris are passionate about besides their camels. (Well, three things I guess if you count their Toyota Land Cruisers. But that is another story.) One of those things is their horses. The Emir owns Arabians, beautiful little delicate aristocratic Arabian horses. While Sheila and I were at work one day, Dave and Errol went to a horse show at the Equestrian Center. They brought back lots of stories of the beauties and whetted our curiosity about what was behind the large ornate gates that we pass each day on the way to school.

Last Thursday night we went to investigate, thinking that we were going to take in a couple of races. As luck would have it, we stumbled onto an international show jumping competition and slid into the stadium to watch a couple of rounds. Riders and horses from around the Gulf States strutted their stuff for the judges, circling the course with great speed and agility. I sat entranced by their strength and skill.

Later we walked to the race track and took in two races from a stadium packed with people. The race track is far too huge to be able to see the horses as they race the far side of the track, but a jumbo tron brings the action right to the stadium. The horses were spirited and sleek, and the races were exciting.

The real star of the evening, though, was the Equestrian Center itself. The place covers at least 20 or 25 acres and includes show rings, stadiums, race tracks (both sand and sod), stable space for at least 700 horses, parking and park areas. And they are still building. Qataris do everything on a grand scale.

The second passion of Qataris is their falcons. Falconry is a traditional sport in the Arab world, and much money, time and effort is put into training and working the gorgeous birds. Just this week, in conjunction with the National Day celebration, a display of traditional arts, crafts and sports has been staged. Though it focused on camel dressage and was called "The Way of the Messenger", one of the tents included a falconer and several of the fierce birds.

I am coming to understand more and more the way of the desert--the appreciation of camels and horses and birds, the deep connection of Bedouin people to the land.

Camels and horses and ruins and stuff, cont'd

Another day we headed north to the beautiful fishing village of Al Khor. The harbour there was a hive of activity, men mending nets, repairing boats,and generally preparing for fishing. The fish market offers every color, size and type of fish from crab and rock lobster to the lovely spotted harmour, and the silvery pink sheri. There is a general feeling of cheerfulness and industy about the place, a bit laid back, in tune with the rhythm of the tides.

With the flares of Ras Laffan to our right, we drove further northwest to Al Ruwais and Madinat al Shamal. We stopped for lunch at a village restaurant where we were served chicken curry and rice. Indian workers came and went as we ate, while Arabs stopped outside in their four wheel droves and honked the horn for curb side service. We have seen that a lot this week. The smaller take out--eat in restaurants seem to be happy to take orders from vehicle doors and deliver as well. Customers need not get out of their cars.

The northwest coast of the country is rife with ruins, most of which are not protected or even archeologically excavated. On our way to Al Zubara we stopped at the site of an ancient village close to the sea. Far from being deserted, the site was occupied by a group of young men having a barbecue and enjoying the winter weather with a pick up game of cricket. Graffiti marred a few of the still standing walls of the ruins. There is nothing to inform the curious about the ruins. Even the fort at Al Zubara is bereft of any innterpretive information.

This is such a country of contrasts. The abundance of the ocean, its beauty, movement and vitality enclose the barren desert. Bright blue waves gently crest on sandy shores but the land itself is dry and rocky, treacherous even, hardly fit for the wild camels that we spotted a few yards from the road way. Yet it is the land that is providing the wealth of the country. Pipelines line the desert like long strings of spaghetti. The days of prosperity from the ocean are long past.

Camels and horses and ruins and stuff

I have to say that I am gaining more respect and perspective on this country the longer I am here. It is just a little dry rocky piece of desert but the diversity of wildlife and plants, of cultures and languages is remarkable, and the depth of the resources both natural and human is noteworthy. We had the opportunity this week to explore some of these aspects of life in Qatar. This was the week of Eid al Adha, the celebration of the feast of the sacrifice. Islam commemorates the obedience of Abraham (Ibrahim) in offering the sacrifice of his son Ishmael. Isn't it interesting how historical conceptions differ? Besides the religious significance of the holiday, it is a time of family celebration much like Christmas. The city has been busy with special family events all week. Dave and I, along with our friends Sheila and Errol, took excursions outside of the city and avoided the crowds.

For us, Eid began with a Christmas brunch with our neighbours on the street, about the only ones who had not yet departed for Christmas holidays. It was fun to celebrate Christmas in this sunny, hot land with people from all over snowy Canada. Before the day was through we were treated to a thunderstorm complete with down pour of rain and hail (the closest thing to snow that we are likely to see). This was the first real rain that I have seen in four months.

Early Sunday morning we headed west across the country to Dukane, Qatar Petroleum country. the first stop on the way was the camel racing track just outside of Doha in Al Rayyan. Camels are close to being the sacred animal in this country and it is easy to understand why. In this barren land they have provided meat and transportation, as well as protection and companionship. In early morning before the heat of the day, the camels stretch their ungainly legs around the sandy track, their long elegant necks stretched out before them. Their feet are huge and nearly circular, as we could see from the deep indents left in the sand. Hundreds of animals are housed in the race track area, tended by young men of many nationalities. Camel trainers seem to be gregarious by nature, as they waved and called out to us from the backs of their charges, trying out their limited English. "How are you?" they called with big smiles on their faces as they passed us on the track.

The racing camels are not ridden by humans. I have heard stories of camel races in Saudi Arabia where the jockeys are young children. This is not the case in Qatar. Here the camels are ridden by robots with little whips that are controlled from vehicles cruising alongside the track.















From the camel track we headed west across the desert to Dukane, a secured town site for the employees of Qatar Petroleum, admittance allowed only to residents and guests. We were permitted to drive to the beach area and spent a lovely hour walking on the sand and shell beach and enjoying the deep aqua color of the Gulf water. The water has cooled considerably this time of year, but it is still unimaginably warmer than the Bay of Fundy in the middle of summer.

Our treck then turned south towards Umm Baab and Al Salwa on the Qatar-Saudi border before turning northeast again on Salwa Road and back to Doha.